It is what it is…
Archive for the ‘Travel’ Category
Highlands of Scotland; Ardnamurchan Shores and Hidden Woodland
19 Nov 2009 | Floral, Landscape, Scotland, Travel | 1 Comment »
A break away from the landscape view to one of a more intimate nature. Ardnamurchan forms the northern edge of Loch Sunart, along the shoreline can be found great swaths of seaweed clinging to dark rocks beneath. What struck me was the intense yellow colour it had, especially notable on a gloomy day. By chance a patch of blue sky opened up directly above me and I quickly set up to create this image of the contrasting colours and layers as they appeared before me. Despite the frenetic placement of the seaweed there’s something calming about the way they’re held in place by the water…
After the wander along the shore I found myself in another dense woodland, discovering this little gem quietly eking out its life in the crook of a heavily coated tree’s branch, it certainly pays to take it slowly and look carefully at what’s around
Hong Kong; People of the Water
19 Nov 2009 | China, Hong Kong, Travel | No comments added... »
From the earliest settlers throughout Hong Kong’s history, people living on the island have been dependent on the surrounding waters for their livelihood; trade, fishing and as a place to live due to the shortage of space on land. Today very little remains of the old ways of salt production and fishing with most trade being done via computers as unimaginable values upon the lofty floors of glass fronted towers that now look down on the once frantically busy waterway of Victoria harbour Don’t get me wrong; it’s still busy but not quite how it used to be when going by the old images of pre-war Hong Kong (more on that later). Indeed the dramatically changing scenery of Hong Kong extends beyond the construction sites and office buildings, the continuing reclamation process is reducing the available harbour and shelter space for boats immediately adjacent to the business districts and the bulk of the shipping ports have begun relocating into mainland China where there isn’t the restriction on space. Looking out to sea it’s hard to miss the unfathomably large 18-container wide ships steam past.
It’s a strange view looking across Causeway Bay, below me lay a tangle of rafts of all shapes and sizes, tarpaulins draped across their tops to act as shelter from the weather and all of them loosely connected with thread-bare ropes forming a slowly undulating mass in the swell. Small craft being paddled laboriously out across the harbour yield to the sampans that chug about, ferrying people from land to water-borne craft. Yet above all the swirling chaos stood neat, ordered static structures, air conditioned offices, high-rise apartments and glistening deep blue glass. Imposing in their placement and dominating the landscape, the people who live on the water are not just looked down in the literal sense of the phrase and the economic status pushes the buildings ever higher. Two worlds so far apart on one level but so undeniably linked to each other…
Highlands of Scotland; Lighthouse on the Edge, Ardnamurchan Peninsula
18 Nov 2009 | Landscape, Scotland, Travel | No comments added... »
When I set out towards the tip of Ardnamurchan Peninsular, often described as the most westerly point on the British mainland (though Corrachadh Mòr which lies to the south inches out a little bit further apparently), a glance at the weather report led me to believe I was in for an evening of light winds, bright conditions and a ‘little’ cloud cover. It ticked all the right boxes promising for some atmosphere and potentially good light to create the image I had in mind. After an hour of perilously tight and twisting single-track roads, I realised the forecasters were optimistic in their descriptions. A blanket of grey cloud overhead blocked any sun and a strong wind meant standing up involved leaning into it at a comical angle! I briefly considered my options and rather than head home with the thought of a wasted trip hanging over my head I watched the fast moving clouds, hoping for a glimmer of light in the dying moments of the day. Waves pounded the rocks below me as I looked north eastwards to Eilean Carrach with Portuairk and Sanna Bay out of view beyond. Looking out to sea, dark clouds roiling off the coast all but obscured the Isle of Coll, Isle of Muck and Isle of Rum beyond it was certainly building into a dramatic display.
If conditions are right, as the sun dips beneath the clouds before falling below the horizon, the photographer is afforded the most spectacular light with which to illuminate a subject whilst retaining a potentially moody sky around it. You may even get some light reflected on the underside of distant clouds, depending on their altitude, as the sun dips below the horizon adding a further dimension to your images. Unfortunately, with stormy seas to the west, the clouds on this particular day stretched to the horizon and possibly beyond, with sufficient density to mean the sun would probably not be making an appearance any time soon. One final factor remained to my advantage though; strong winds. I was in luck as a large hole developed lending a touch of soft light to the scene. I stepped out of my shelter from behind some rocks and got to work creating the shot. Light produces colour from the objects it reflects off, in its relative absence I chose a longer shutter speed to collect what light there was and to emphasise the movement of the waves. The final result belies the high winds I was sheltering from just moments before but the movement in the water gives it the energy that I was looking for.
After precariously balancing on the slippery rocks with my tripod for some time, surrounded by the wind and waves, I made my retreat. The nature of landscape photography is often one that allows the photographer time to prepare a composition and then wait for the “right” light to illuminate it just the right way. Occasionally though an opportunity may arise that is fleeting, requiring quick instinctive decisions to make an image. As I began my rock-hopping back to dry land the clouds began to break up directly in front of the sun and around the lighthouse. I was quick to set up again and make just one image of it (top). Within the space of another exposure a large cloud had completely obscured the sun and any light. It did not return. I packed up and headed home satisfied I had done what I could given the circumstance.
The weather is one aspect a photographer cannot control, no matter how much we’d like to but this unpredictability makes the challenge of photography worth pursuing. With results perhaps better than those initially envisaged it serves the photographer well to keep an open mind and use their vision to create an image regardless of the conditions, with due attention to their own safety of course. More often than not images created in such circumstances generally turn out to be some of my favourites, be it the sense of achievement at having survived harsh conditions (and lived to tell the tale!) or that such a departure yields an altogether better representation of the subject from the original intention. By keeping an open mind and being prepared to seek alternative views a photographer may be pushed to stretch their skills to new levels and create images that perhaps exceed their initial intent or vision. Be prepared and ‘expect the unexpected’.
Hong Kong; Markets of Kowloon, Ladies Market
13 Nov 2009 | China, Hong Kong, Travel | No comments added... »
You can buy anything in Hong Kong, you just have to know where to look. From the vast shopping malls (almost everywhere!) containing designer clothing outlets of the likes of Louis Vuitton and Giorgio Armani to the sprawling street markets wheere you can find jewelry, clothing, fake designer handbags, fake designer watches, toys, games, trinkets, food of all descriptions there’s even an area where you can buy kittens, puppies and goldfish! The Kowloon regions of Mong Kok, YauMaTei and Tsim Sha Tsui form the epicenter of street markets within Hong Kong. Of the many markets the most well known and largest are the Ladies Market (see below) and Temple Street Night Market that span several streets’ worth of precious Hong Kong space, implying above all else their importance to locals not just tourists. Others such as the Jade Market, Goldfish Market and Fruit Market are smaller but still draw the crowds of locals and visitors alike. All lie within walking distance of each other and can be a fun day’s worth of meandering along busy streets, watching the buzz and energy of people going about their lives beneath brightly coloured signs and adverts overhead. Just be sure to watch out for the taxis!
There’s so much bustle and jostling going on in and around the markets, deliveries to and from stalls, squeaking of the trollies as they rush by, stall hands calling out for attention of their wares and the people haggling over their value of goods. Alien languages cry out from one side of the tight walk-way to the next as their keepers discuss the last deal made – did they fleece yet another unwitting tourist I wonder? A concoction of smells wafting out from each stall as the occupants grab a quick meal between visiting customers or even a quick nap away from prying eyes during another long day. It’s completely safe to wander around with a camera and see what to pick out, I was trying to see what happens beyond the view of a tourist and all the glittery stalls, where the objects for sale are doing the moving around – assisted by the vendors at each stall. I tried to keep a polite distance whilst looking for shots to create the story of the market, though in a heavily populated country such as this I’ve no idea what a polite distance cold be…still, I received no objections which I took to be a good sign at least.
Near the Mong Kok MTR (Hong Kong’s underground rail network – very efficient!) is the Ladies Market on Tung Choi Street. Originating as a place for women to buy (mostly) clothes it has since transformed into a sprawling mass of stalls selling all manner of things, much like the one down in Wan Chai only spread over several blocks and as ever you just have to know what to look for and sped wisely when you find it. Part of the skill of spending wisely is to haggle, for everything. Haggling down from the initial asking price is expected by the vendors, I suspect they’d feel upset if you didn’t at least liven up their day with a bit of hard bartering going on. Nothing in the market has a price tag, if you express an interest one of the many stall hands will pounce and offer it to you for a fairly arbitrary and often greatly inflated price. As a rule you never take their first offer. I tried my hand when looking for a few things and went for the dead-pan approach when a ‘price’ was announced. A moment passed without a word from myself or the stall hand then, to break the silence I suspect, the ‘price’ was dropped some 25% right off the bat, this is usually an indicator that what it is actually worth is a fair bit lower still. Happily I turned out to be reasonably ok at it and getting an item about 1/4 of the initial offered price. They put on pained expressions as you push them down on the price for things, part of their tactics are to hurry you along into buying before you fully haggle it out to your satisfaction! It’s fun to have a go at though and sticking to your ground really works to your benefit.
Hong Kong; 10,000 Buddahs Monastery
10 Nov 2009 | China, Hong Kong, Travel | No comments added... »
Overlooking the northern town of Sha Tin lies the 10,000 Buddahs Monastery. Sha Tin was the site of the equestrian events for the Bejing Olympic Games in 2008, with a large purpose built centre and popular race track it draws vast crowds on race days with bets regularly raised above HK$1,000,000, to the enjoyment of the watching crowds. Some 400 steps lined with life-sized golden statues of buddhists and monks take you up to the main temple complex comprising the main temple and several outlying buildings in memory of other deities. Inside, the main temple is filled to the ceiling with shelves lined with 3 inch tall statues of Buddahs, apparently there are more than 12,000 within the complex itself! You may begin counting…
Hong Kong; City Lights
06 Nov 2009 | China, Landscape, Travel | 1 Comment »
I joined the crowds along the Kowloon waterfront to watch the Symphony of Lights display the other evening, horrendously touristy I know but has to be done at least once if you are ever here. Visibility was not as great as I would have hoped for (or in other words pollution levels were quite high) – apparently it hasn’t been this poor for many years. Still, myself along with several hundred others got the views seen in all the postcards that typify Hong Kong as a marvel of modern architecture and enterprising commerce and so on. Every night at 8pm the buildings on the island are lit and put on a display of lights to music, spotlights and lasers beam upwards as patterns of lights flicker across building fronts. Illuminated zig-zag patterns dance across the front of the Bank of China Tower whilst next to it the HSBC building glows red and white for example… just a bit of fun and something you just have to do – even if it is a bit touristy!
Hong Kong; Worship and Lawlessness
01 Nov 2009 | China, Hong Kong, Travel, Urban | No comments added... »
Once again taking the oh-so-efficient MTR I travelled to the northern part of Kowloon to the Wong Tai Sin stop to find a temple, to give its full name Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple. Built in 1973 and named after the god representing health and well being the temple stands next to the not so attractive Wong Tai Sin estate. As I discovered a popular place for many to come, even fairly early in the day, the buildings of worship are a riot of patterns and colours; red and gold dominate the architecture with accents of blues, greens and whites. You would be lucky to get a clear view of the temple though as throughout the complex incense urns were stuffed full of burning scented sticks, thick white plumes shrouding everything in a pungent smoke. Stalls leading up to the temple sold all manner of potent inflammatory objects for visitors to burn as offerings to the deities, they certainly seemed to be doing rather well out of it all! To the side of the temple lies the Good Wish Garden, a series of zig-zag walkways over a pond (full of carp and terrapin) with a waterfall. All quite pleasant to wander around though a bit odd thanks to the fact every square inch is covered in concrete (they love the stuff out here!).
After seeing the temple and taking on perhaps more fumigation than any man probably should take I headed south to the Kowloon Walled City Park. Until as recently as the early nineties within the walls of today’s park, an area no larger than a couple of football pitches at most housed an estimated 14,000 people – though estimates were thought to be quite conservative! It was a seething hive of lawlessness and villainy unseen in the main part of Hong Kong. When the British acquired Hong Kong and the New Territories for some reason what lay inside the walled city was not included and remained, technically, part of mainland China though very much cut off. In effect the surrounding jurisdiction had no power over what occurred within its walls. Originally a fort built by the Chinese in the mid-19th century as part of the empire’s coastal defenses it remained a law unto itself when the surrounding lands were acquired by the British. After the second world war a lot of the stone work from the fort was pulled down to help create Kai Tak airport, which is no longer in use and now a golf driving range. What emerged fairly rapidly within the walls were ramshakle high-rise blocks, wedged in between each other and essentially run by triads, becoming a hotbed of criminal activities including gambling, opium dens and illegal dentistry. Despite many attempts by the Chinese to pull down the Walled City community groups resisted until in 1992 the finally relented and what now exists is a pleasant structured park instead. All that remains are a small group of buildings renovated to their original state now with illustrations of the fascinating history of possibly the most dangerous area in south China for some time.
Hong Kong; Old v New, Wan Chai
31 Oct 2009 | China, Hong Kong, Travel, Urban | 1 Comment »
Old meets new, Old gets knocked down and rebuilt higher and shinier than anything around it and becomes the new new for everything else to aspire to beat…and so the continually evolving urban landscape of Hong Kong exists. Hong Kong Island is extremely limited in available land space, any plot of land is incredibly valuable and nothing is freehold only leased. This results in a dynamic system of constant renewal. Where other cities expand sideways across a given area Hong Kong grew vertically, buildings hundreds of floors high mingle with their smaller 40 story counterparts until the day comes for a change. Perhaps the best place to see this in action is along the streets of the Wan Chai district. Still suffering from a bit of a bug I headed out to see what lies down there. On one side of the main road narrow, blackened and crumbling towers stand about seven stories high, their dilapidated states making them seem far more imposing than the much higher modern towers opposite them. The modern buildings couldn’t be more different if they tried; sleek, glass, metallic and vast at several times taller than the aged blocks. The contrasts don’t end there though; in the basements of the new buildings lie cavernous shopping centres selling anything from designer suits to sports gear and on through to restaurants, yet take a walk down a side lane and you’re pitched into another world. Already narrow streets become a tight corridor through which to squeeze because of the stalls loaded with all manner of things; fruits, clothing, trinkets even varieties of fresh fish (that is to say; “alive-in-a-tank-for-you-to-chose-from” fresh fish) – I even spotted one valiant attempt by one denizen of the sea as it vied for freedom, sadly it didn’t get that far before it was spotted and returned…
