Posts Tagged ‘China’

Hong Kong; City Lights

06 Nov 2009 | , , | 1 Comment »

Night Lights

I joined the crowds along the Kowloon waterfront to watch the Symphony of Lights display the other evening, horrendously touristy I know but has to be done at least once if you are ever here. Visibility was not as great as I would have hoped for  (or in other words pollution levels were quite high) – apparently it hasn’t been this poor for many years. Still, myself along with several hundred others got the views seen in all the postcards that typify Hong Kong as a marvel of modern architecture and enterprising commerce and so on. Every night at 8pm the buildings on the island are lit and put on a display of lights to music, spotlights and lasers beam upwards as patterns of lights flicker across building fronts. Illuminated zig-zag patterns dance across the front of the Bank of China Tower whilst next to it the HSBC building glows red and white for example… just a bit of fun and something you just have to do – even if it is a bit touristy!

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Hong Kong; Worship and Lawlessness

01 Nov 2009 | , , , | No comments added... »

Sticks

Once again taking the oh-so-efficient MTR I travelled to the northern part of Kowloon to the Wong Tai Sin stop to find a temple, to give its full name Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple. Built in 1973 and named after the god representing health and well being the temple stands next to the not so attractive Wong Tai Sin estate. As I discovered a popular place for many to come, even fairly early in the day, the buildings of worship are a riot of patterns and colours; red and gold dominate the architecture with accents of blues, greens and whites. You would be lucky to get a clear view of the temple though as throughout the complex incense urns were stuffed full of burning scented sticks, thick white plumes shrouding everything in a pungent smoke. Stalls leading up to the temple sold all manner of potent inflammatory objects for visitors to burn as offerings to the deities, they certainly seemed to be doing rather well out of it all! To the side of the temple lies the Good Wish Garden, a series of zig-zag walkways over a pond (full of carp and terrapin) with a waterfall. All quite pleasant to wander around though a bit odd thanks to the fact every square inch is covered in concrete (they love the stuff out here!).

After seeing the temple and taking on perhaps more fumigation than any man probably should take I headed south to the Kowloon Walled City Park. Until as recently as the early nineties within the walls of today’s park, an area no larger than a couple of football pitches at most housed an estimated 14,000 people – though estimates were thought to be quite conservative! It was a seething hive of lawlessness and villainy unseen in the main part of Hong Kong. When the British acquired Hong Kong and the New Territories for some reason what lay inside the walled city was not included and remained, technically, part of mainland China though very much cut off. In effect the surrounding jurisdiction had no power over what occurred within its walls. Originally a fort built by the Chinese in the mid-19th century as part of the empire’s coastal defenses it remained a law unto itself when the surrounding lands were acquired by the British. After the second world war a lot of the stone work from the fort was pulled down to help create Kai Tak airport, which is no longer in use and now a golf driving range. What emerged fairly rapidly within the walls were ramshakle high-rise blocks, wedged in between each other and essentially run by triads, becoming a hotbed of criminal activities including gambling, opium dens and illegal dentistry. Despite many attempts by the Chinese to pull down the Walled City community groups resisted until in 1992 the finally relented and what now exists is a pleasant structured park instead. All that remains are a small group of buildings renovated to their original state now with illustrations of the fascinating history of possibly the most dangerous area in south China for some time.

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Hong Kong; Old v New, Wan Chai

31 Oct 2009 | , , , | 1 Comment »

Old and New

Old meets new, Old gets knocked down and rebuilt higher and shinier than anything around it and becomes the new new for everything else to aspire to beat…and so the continually evolving urban landscape of Hong Kong exists. Hong Kong Island is extremely limited in available land space, any plot of land is incredibly valuable and nothing is freehold only leased. This results in a dynamic system of constant renewal. Where other cities expand sideways across a given area Hong Kong grew vertically, buildings hundreds of floors high mingle with their smaller 40 story counterparts until the day comes for a change. Perhaps the best place to see this in action is along the streets of the Wan Chai district. Still suffering from a bit of a bug I headed out to see what lies down there. On one side of the main road narrow, blackened and crumbling towers stand about seven stories high, their dilapidated states making them seem far more imposing than the much higher modern towers opposite them. The modern buildings couldn’t be more different if they tried; sleek, glass, metallic and vast at several times taller than the aged blocks. The contrasts don’t end there though; in the basements of the new buildings lie cavernous shopping centres selling anything from designer suits to sports gear and on through to restaurants, yet take a walk down a side lane and you’re pitched into another world. Already narrow streets become a tight corridor through which to squeeze because of the stalls loaded with all manner of things; fruits, clothing, trinkets even varieties of fresh fish (that is to say; “alive-in-a-tank-for-you-to-chose-from” fresh fish) – I even spotted one valiant attempt by one denizen of the sea as it vied for freedom, sadly it didn’t get that far before it was spotted and returned…

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Hong Kong; Tram to Victoria Peak

29 Oct 2009 | , , , | No comments added... »

View from the top

One of the major crowd drawing attractions in Hong Kong is the Peak Tram, taking happy punters up to Victoria Peak to look down upon on all the ordered chaos of the high-rise buildings, a welcome opportunity to escape the darkened streets and spaces below. This view (above) shows the sprawl of buildings on Hong Kong Island and the tangled sprawl over the water in Kowloon, as is evident there was quite a lot of pollution in the air at the time I went. Converting the image to black and white has improved the view a touch but by no means eliminated what really is quite a dense haze, noticeable after only a few hundred meters. I wasn’t feeling too great this day having picked up a bug (urgh!) and canceled plans to stay for sunset etc. though it certainly is not hard to get back again, just have to fit a return trip in. Oh, and everywhere you go in Hong Kong has a shopping mall, even at the top of a +500 metre climb. What amazes me is the expectation for it to be sustained by continual visitors. I suspect philosophy is something along the lines of “…if there are going to be lots of people coming to an area, build a shopping mall”, or perhaps even as simple as “might as well have a mall here!”

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Hong Kong; the New Territories, Wu Kan Tang and Queens Road

26 Oct 2009 | , , , | No comments added... »

Wu Kan Tang Door

North of Hong Kong lie the New Territories, a large area of open land not heavily built upon – in fact protected in country parks.To get there meant a drive along the highways through Kowloon and out along a pleasant coastal road around Plover Cove Reservoir. The aim was a walk via Bridal Pools to the small village of Wu Kan Tang and up into the hills around. Wu Kan Tang rests in a relatively lush green valley within the Plover Cove Country Park, a stark contrast from the high-rise tower blocks for Hong Kong. The area itself is a popular holiday destination for the city dwellers as it provides a chance to escape the bustle and mayhem of city living for a day. There were quite a few people out and about but everyone you pass seemed so welcoming and genuine its not something you really minded at all! The paths, as yesterday, were not hard going but the humidity and head were both fairly high, you just get used to a film of sweat and keep moving. Above the village a clearing had been made allowing views in most directions and across Starling Inlet towards mainland China. After the walk a quick boost came in the form of some interesting local cuisine at a bustling eatery in Shuen Wan, it was great to sample something fresh and local, and entirely new!

Today (Monday) is a national holiday known as ‘Autumn Remembrance’, I’ve also heard it referred to as ‘Ancestor day’, it originates from the Han Dynasty. the story goes that a Scholar called Woon was told by a sage to take his family to a high place on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month and spend the night there. Upon return to his village every living thing had died, the sage had saved the Woon family’s lives. Although few will spend the night at the top of a mountain many will walk up to somewhere elevated, often combining this with a visit to ancestral graves normally kept on higher grounds. On the walk over Lantau Peak yesterday there were lots of people heading up quite late in the day, it is possible they did spend the night up there in light of this event.

In the evening I headed out along Queens Road West to see the shops, this area is west of the main touristy section, beyond the Man Mo temple, and the shops are less about trying to attract the unknowing passer by but more to sell what people actually want, I saw no other western looking faces whilst I was in this part of town. Hanging outside several shops were objects made of paper, these ranged from violins, cars, computers, planes, dogs, horses, anything you could think of really and all in connection with the national holiday of remembrance. Family members would take these to graves and burn them as well as Hell Money for their deceased relatives. I walked on, passing shops with tanks of live fish waiting to be plucked out, racks of crabs on skewers ready to eat, stores with shelves of dried goods for use as traditional medicines – from dog livers to shark fins (and worse) it was all there – but not feeling the need to cure any sort of ailment with what they had on offer I wandered on. Plus I’m sure by simply standing near the entrance and inhaling deeply it was enough to get a heady concoction of some potent hallucinogen! Brightly lit neon signs and the buzz of traffic led me back to the MTR (very efficient underground) and home to the east. One thing I’m quickly realising is urban photography is very different from the sort I usually do…certainly not the sort of place to set down the tripod and set about arranging a shot, that said I’m enjoying the challenge in this wonderfully diverse place.

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Hong Kong; Lantau Island, Buddha and the Peak

24 Oct 2009 | , , , | 1 Comment »

Buddha Statue

On Lantau Island, up a mountain, lies a large statue of Buddha. The plan of a relatively early ascent were dashed due to a delay at the Tung Chung cable car station. After a fair few fits and starts it eventually started working again, whisking people off to see Buddha. 20 mins inside a gently swaying capsule later, you arrive to find yourself passing gift shops selling overpriced trinkets and souvenirs (including the amusingly titled ‘Chopstick Library’), ignoring these I aimed for the statue – its so big you can hardly miss it. A long flight of steps leads up to the statue itself, a simple enough task you’d think but the pressing heat and humidity ensure you go quite slow, a bonus of the delay on the cable car meant there weren’t hoards of people and you could take your time, and pictures without anyone in them! It is very challenging to take an image of something here and avoid capturing people in someway, you can’t simply wait for a crowd of people to walk by and get a gap because there just wont be one! Amazingly though I got lucky once or twice.

Hoping to find a little bit more about the history of this seemingly ancient and magnificent structure it transpires to have only been in place since – wait for it  – 1989! Still, something certainly worth going to see. After walking around it was time to go back down and not a moment too soon as a mass of people had arrived and were heading up the steps.

These crowds were avoided by taking a walk to Silver Mine Bay, what was not realised was this went via Lantau peak. Lantau peak is the highest of the hills (a mountain!) around Hong Kong and it’s immediate islands, at 935m the hike is not that different to walking in the French alps, what almost kills you though is the heat, at one point noted as 32C! Getting to the top consisted of breaks every 50m or wherever a convenient bit of shade behind a rock or under a tree afforded some relief. A constant updraft provided a very welcome cooling breeze. It became clear why there wasn’t anyone else going up at the same time; “mad dogs and Englishmen” and all that. The heat would have finished off anyone without sufficient water or experience of mountain walking knowing that you will get there eventually. I was exhausted thanks to the energy sapping heat but finally reached the summit. At the peak views were great but not as rewarding as hoped but the rest was, Hong Kong is slightly blighted by an almost constant pollution haze, you just have to live with it but it does make photography a challenge! The descent was fairly straight forwards, long shadows stretched ahead as the sun began to decent, rather than walk all the way to Silver Mine Bay (the map said the path led over another massive Sunrise Peak) a detour was made to catch a bus there, a wise move indeed. The return trip to Hong Kong island was via boat under a lingering sunset thanks largely to the haze, once the sun had gone down to see the buildings lit up as we pulled into port was quite something, I hope the haze clears a little for me to get a good shot of the skyline one evening…

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Hong Kong; Trains, Planes and Automobiles

23 Oct 2009 | , , , | 1 Comment »

Man Mo Temple

9am (local time) Greetings from Hong Kong! After a fairly long and slightly exhausting flight (lack of sleep thanks to seat not actually tipping back but more sliding beneath the one in front…don’t ask!) I arrived at Hong Kong International Airport pleasantly ahead of schedule and in to a warm blanket of 24C heat. Quite a difference from the chilly Heathrow I left behind. A good couple of movies helped pass some of the time and thankfully I didn’t get put next to ‘the fat guy’, quite the contrary in fact, my fellow passengers were great company and made the journey that much more bearable despite the comedy seat/tipping arrangement. Time is a funny thing on an aeroplane, one of the dominant ques for setting our body clocks is daylight, going east effectively shortens this, your body fights to keep itself in sync at this unexpected alteration in the daylight. I’ve only been here a couple of hours and, understandably tired from the flight itself, I’ve yet to find the joys of jet lag hit me. A quick train – costing less than a third of the UK Heathrow express(!) – got me to the centre of Hong Kong, an equally cheap taxi to the door of where I’m staying and thats that. Right, the cleaners have just come in (think of the Penguins from Mary Poppins) so thats my que to head out for an explore, so much to see…must stay awake to stave off any time difference problems.

3pm Well, I wandered around taking in the sights. Today has been a day of contrasts thats for sure and I wouldn’t have it any other way! From hi-tech aircraft that take us half way round the planet to walking into temples burning so much incense it made your eyes sting if you hung around too long! Not to mention the buildings held up by bamboo, then there’s the skyscrapers. I’m going to see if I can head up the China Bank Tower to the public viewing gallery at some point… The sights, sounds and smells – there’s so much to take in, add to that the combination of fatigue and energy sapping heat its enough to make you feel a bit giddy, indeed I found I was flagging a bit and in need of sustenance. Before I go here’s a taster and I’ll add more with where and what once my brain and body have recharged!

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